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Don’t Knock Sipping Chilled Red Wine

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Two glasses of chilled red wine with ice cubes in them sit on a grey table with ice cubes scattered about.

Working as a server, the request for wine with ice such as a chilled red wine always earned a big eye roll. “They asked for ICE with their WINE,” we’d poke fun in the back before cheerily dropping off a glass of red glass wine brimming with crystal-clear cubes to the table.

Sipping Chilled Red Wine

It wasn’t until years later, still serving, that I began to understand the benefits of iced – or rather, chilled – red. “Put it in the fridge for a bit before you drink it,” my employer said, handing me a beautiful, fruit-forward Barolo, which became smooth and soft with the cold edge. Inside the restaurant, ice cubes were swapped for a wine fridge, keeping the top-tier bottles at a cool 55 degrees.

Certain wines hold a chill better than others, according to Alyssa McGrath, a wine expert. She recommends looking for lighter-bodied and highly acidic wines. Bottles with notes of red fruit and tart flavors will hold up to a slight chill.

What Wines to Chill

Look for varietals like Pinot Noir from cool and high altitude climates. Alyssa recommends bottles from France and Northern Italy. She’s also a fan of Gamay, Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch varietals from Austria, Lagrein from Alto Adige, Italy, Cinsault from Southern France, and – if you can find a bottle – the rather obscure Pais from Chile. Natural wines, bottles with little to no sulfur added, also respond well to a quick trip in the fridge.

A somewhat elevated version of iced red, called a “chuggable” cocktail, shows up on menus in Spain, combining European not-too-sweet lemon soda (like a San Pellegrino Limonata) and a mild red wine. The addition of soda makes it far less potent and lighter than its tipsy cousin, sangria. Soda and wine might not be for everyone, however.

Chilled red, on the other hand, is. It’s the perfect thing for porch or poolside drinking, especially on a sweltering summer day. Sneak a few bottles in the fridge and thank us later. 

Story by Maggie Weaver
Photography by Adam Milliron

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Fava Bean Puree with Sautéed Chicory

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A creamy and flavorful puree made from fresh fava beans. This vibrant green spread is rich in taste and perfect for adding a burst of freshness to your dishes.

Fava Bean Puree with Sautéed Chicory is simple food at its best. Using ingredients that are typically bountiful in rural settings, it still pleases the stomach and the palate. By combining the sweetness of fava bean with the bitter taste of chicory, the dish appeals to the most sophisticated palates. Try serving it alongside a piece of crusty bread so you can sop up every last drop of goodness.

All About Fava Bean Puree with Sautéed Chicory

Fave e cicoria, meaning Fava Bean Puree with Sautéed Chicory, is a traditional peasant dish from the southern region of Apulia. It uses two humble ingredients that were and still are quite cheap, and using very basic cooking techniques. The dish is also known as macco Pugliese, where macco is a traditional dried fava bean soup from Agrigento, Sicily, which is served paired with different kind of greens depending on the region: chard in Sicily, chicory in Apulia. 

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A creamy and flavorful puree made from fresh fava beans. This vibrant green spread is rich in taste and perfect for adding a burst of freshness to your dishes.

Fava Bean Puree with Sautéed Chicory


  • Author: Sara Ghedina

Description

Try a dish directly from Southern Italy.


Ingredients

Scale
  • 2 1/2 cups dry fava beans
  • 1 medium-size potato, cubed
  • 1 yellow onion, cut in half
  • 2 carrots, cut in 3 to 4 pieces
  • 1 stalk celery, cut in 3 to 4 pieces
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 1 large bunch chicory (dandelion greens)
  • 2 to 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/4 tsp red pepper flakes
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

  1. Soak fava beans overnight, drain and then place them in a large pot along with potato, onion, carrots, celery, bay leaves and 1 whole garlic clove.
  2. Add enough water to cover the beans and the vegetables by at least 2 inches. Bring to boil, then reduce the heat to simmer and cook, covered, for about an hour, until beans are smashed and tender, adding more water if needed and removing the foam when necessary. Season with salt and then cook for another 2 to 3 minutes to blend the flavor.
  3. Remove onion, carrots, celery and bay leaves, then beat the potato and fava bean mixture with a wooden spoon until smooth, or use a hand immersion blender. Set aside (cooling off, the fava bean puree will thicken quite a bit; if you need to reheat it before serving, add few tablespoons of water).
  4. Trim the chicory and cut it into 2 to 3 inch pieces. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, then add the greens and cook until they are soft, about 15 to 20 minutes.
  5. Drain well, squeezing out as much liquid as possible.
  6. Heat the extra-virgin olive in a large pan with the remaining garlic clove and the red pepper flakes. Cook for a minute or two, then add the greens, toss and sauté for a minute or two.
  7. Serve a scoop of fava puree on each plate topped with a spoonful of the sautéed greens. Drizzle with a little extra-virgin olive oil, and sprinkle with cracked black pepper.

Story, Photography, and Recipes by Sara Ghedina

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Whole Roasted Branzini

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A whole roasted branzini with fingering roasted potatoes sits on a white decorated plate with bits of orange and green flowers.

Chef Chris O’Brien from Hyeholde Restaurant in Pittsburgh shares his recipe for a juicy, Whole Roasted Branzini with a fennel salad stuffing, truffle butter sauce, and roasted potatoes.

A Little Hyeholde History

“It began with a romance the day William Kryskill told his bride that someday he would build her a castle on the crest of a cornfield where they stood.” And so begins the fairy tale of Hyeholde Restaurant, a castle-turned-eatery that sits high on a hill in Coraopolis. 

The tale continues with Kryskill beginning the seven-year construction of his castle. Its design in 1931 was to be part-living quarters and part-restaurant. The next chapter sees Pat Foy at the helm. He transformed the place into a charming, sophisticated eatery. Soon after, he began constructing a new entry and laynched a nightclub in 1987.

Hyeholde Today and Its Whole Roasted Branzini

The current chapter of Hyeholde is now in the hands of Kryskill’s daughter. It infuses a menu of country French cooking with modern flair, under the eye of Chef Chris O’​Brien.

O’Brien brings dishes to his menu that have been “lost over the years,” spicing them up with fresh, seasonal ingredients. Playing off the historic, rustic charm of the place itself, he plates up the comforting, rich flavors and textures of French cuisine, what he calls “simple food done right.”

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A whole roasted branzini with fingering roasted potatoes sits on a white decorated plate with bits of orange and green flowers.

Whole Roasted Branzini


  • Author: Chef Chris O’Brien

Description

The addition of a fennel salad stuffing and truffle butter sauce put this dish above the rest.


Ingredients

Scale
  • 1 bulb fennel, shaved and chopped
  • 1/2 red onion, shaved
  • Olive oil
  • 1 lemon, juiced and zested
  • Salt and pepper, to taste
  • 4 whole branzini (11 ¼ each), scaled, deboned with backbone removed

For the truffle butter sauce:

  • 1 cup white wine
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 2 tbsp thyme
  • 1 shallot
  • 1 lemon, juiced and zested
  • ½ cup cream
  • ½ lb butter
  • 23 tbsp truffle oil
  • Salt, to taste

Instructions

For the branzini and fennel salad stuffing:

  1. On a mandolin, thinly shave fennel and red onion into a mixing bowl. Chop fennel tops and mix with shaved salad.
  2. Lightly coat salad with olive oil, zested lemon and juice of one lemon. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  3. To finish, season inside of fish with salt and pepper. Stuff with shaved fennel salad.
  4. Heat Teflon sauté pan with oil, place fish in pan over medium heat, two fish per pan at a time so as not to overcrowd pan.
  5. Cook over medium heat for 3-6 minutes per fish side.
  6. Finish in oven for 5-8 minutes at 375 degrees.
  7. Remove from pan and serve with roasted potatoes and butter sauce.

For the truffle butter sauce:

  1. Reduce white wine, bay leaves, thyme, chopped shallot, and lemon juice by two-thirds. Add cream and reduce until thick.
  2. Mount with butter and truffle oil. Add salt to taste and more lemon if needed.
  3. Strain and serve with fish.

For the roasted potatoes:

  1. Blanch fingerling potatoes in boiling water until tender. Cool potatoes.
  2. In sauté pan heat with oil brown the potatoes. Season with salt and pepper and finish with butter and chopped parsley.

Recipe by Chef Chris O’Brien of Hyeholde Restaurant
Story Maggie Weaver
Styling Keith Recker
Photography Dave Bryce

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Seafood Spaghetti

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A seafood spaghetti sits in a shallow bowl with shrimp and mussels, all sitting on a wood picnic table.

This summer, Seafood Spaghetti is all you need to go all-out al fresco. The fresh, light flavors of seafood mingle with a zing of zesty, in-season cherry tomatoes, and fragrant herbs. We like to think this dish belongs on an outdoor picnic table in the evening rays of sunshine. But, you can always keep it handy for when you’re craving a hearty serving of seafood.

Seafood Spaghetti Perfect for a Mediterranean Diet

Don’t feel the guilt while indulging in this delectable Seafood Spaghetti. This recipe actually aligns beautifully with the guidelines of a Mediterranean diet. Fresh, lean seafood like clams, mussels, and shrimp ensures a dose of protein. Then, nutritious and vibrant in-season tomatoes along with the use of heart-healthy olive oil play into the wholesome choices here. The best part is that it’s a meal that your whole family will enjoy while still adhering to your own dietary needs.

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A seafood spaghetti sits in a shallow bowl with shrimp and mussels, all sitting on a wood picnic table.

Seafood Spaghetti


  • Author: Stephanie Sullivan
  • Yield: Serves 8

Description

Your usual pasta dish gets a major upgrade with fresh seafood.


Ingredients

Scale
  • ¼ cup olive oil
  • 3 garlic cloves, chopped
  • 3 shallots, chopped
  • 1 lb shrimp, shelled and deveined
  • 1 lb scallops
  • 1 cup dry white wine
  • 1 dozen littleneck clams, scrubbed
  • 1 dozen mussels, scrubbed
  • 1 lb calamari
  • 1 lb spaghetti, cooked
  • 1 cup pasta cooking water
  • 2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved
  • ¼ cup fresh basil, chopped
  • ¼ cup fresh oregano, removed from stems

Instructions

  1. In a large saute pan or paella pan, heat the olive oil. Add garlic and shallots, and sauté briefly. Add the scallops and sauté until just colored on each side. Remove to a large platter. Add shrimp to sauté pan and cook just until pink. Remove to platter.
  2. Bring the wine to a gentle boil in a large pot and add the clams, mussels, and calamari. Cook until shells start to open, about 2 minutes. Remove the seafood to the platter.
  3. Pour the white wine into the sauté pan and deglaze. Reheat the pasta in boiling water, then add to the sauté pan. Add herbs and tomatoes and toss to mix, adding pasta cooking water as needed. Add seafood and mix gently, and season to taste.
  4. Move all to a serving platter and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil before serving.

Recipe by Stephanie Sullivan
Photography by Adam Milliron

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7 Cocktails for Tax Day

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Two white yellow frozen drinks in tall, skinny glasses, PainKiller Cocktail

Tax Day is coming up on April 15, 2025 and just the mention of it can induce a wave of stress. Numbers swirling, forms multiplying, and the ever-looming question: will you owe money or get a refund? But fear not, fellow taxpayer! After a long day of financial wrangling, a cocktail will help ease the stress. You can embrace your feelings of dread with our Black Death Cocktail. Or, you can toast your prospects for a refund with a Classic French 75. Either way, we hope a lovely beverage brings you a little bit of relief on this complicated day.

7 Cocktails for Tax Day

Lemon Basil Martini

a lemon basil martini cocktail in a coupe glass sitting on a white and grey marble slab with fresh basil and olive oil floating on the top of the cocktail

For those who enjoy a bit of herbal sunshine to combat math-induced dullness, the Lemon Basil Martini offers a sophisticated cocktail for your senses. The clean flavors of lemon and basil complement the vodka beautifully, making it an optimistic and satisfying end-of-tax-day drink.

Banana Walnut Old Fashioned Cocktail

An orange in color old fashioned cocktail sits in a old fashioned glass, garnished with banana bread.

A little bit of comfort goes a long way when you’re stressed out by a maelstrom of numbers. The Banana Walnut Old Fashioned is a unique twist on the classic old fashioned, adding in the flavor of comforting banana bread. Banana liqueur and nutty walnut bitters add unexpected depth to the familiar flavor of whiskey.

Painkiller Cocktail

Two white yellow frozen drinks in tall, skinny glasses, PainKiller Cocktail

Feeling the tax-day pain? The PainKiller Cocktail, a tropical blend of rum, pineapple juice, orange juice, cream of coconut, and nutmeg, might be the perfect stress reliever or “painkiller”. It’s a bright way to unwind after a day of dealing with endless forms and complicated instructions.

Punch Drunk Negroni

A cocktail orange in color sits in a rocks glass, garnished by a strawberry. Punch Drunk Negroni Cocktail Recipe

This drink is for when you want something that’s strong and… effective. Our Punch Drunk Negroni uses a fruity simple syrup and a bit of brut champagne combined with traditional negroni ingredients.  It’s all too easy to drink so be careful or you might end up with a different kind of non-tax related headache the next day.

The Margin of Error

A 2024 election-themed cocktail in a highball glass

While we originally created this cocktail for the 2024 election, when suddenly everyone’s mind was on tiny numerical values and percentage points, Tax Day is one other time of year when margins of error start to seem very important. Maybe your Schedule C business expenses were, shall we say, rounded up by a margin. We won’t tell. Pour this one out to celebrate finishing your forms!

Espresso Whiskey Martini

Two Espresso Whiskey Martini fills one purple and one blue martini glasses, adorned with gold accents.

Taxes can be exhausting, especially when you have a full day ahead of you. Get a little energy boost with your stress-relieving cocktail thanks to our Espresso Whiskey Martini. We innovated the usual espresso martini to include whiskey and Frangelico for a sweet, warm sip.

Classic French 75

Two classic French 75 sit in champagne flutes against a black background with lemon peels inside the glass. A bottle of champagne pour into the glass to the right of the frame.

When your forms are complete and you see that big refund hit the screen, celebrate and pop some bubbly with a Classic French 75. This timeless blend of gin, lemon juice, champagne, and simple syrup is as elegant as it is refreshing.

Story by Kylie Thomas

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Lamb Rendang

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A black plate with a Lamb Rendang on top featuring sauteed greens all on a brown table.

This slow-cooked Lamb Rendang from The Aviary Kinderhook is fork-tender, rich with coconut milk made buttery and smooth in the process, and infused with the indescribably delicious layering of Indonesian flavors. Serve it with sides of sautéed greens and creamy polenta cooked with coconut milk and a bit of salt, and dressed with Indonesian sambal oelek, a ground chili sauce available at many grocers.

How Lamb Rendang Relates to Wine

Rendang is the sort of dish that unfolds as you eat it, inspiring a second helping, another sip of wine, and a long conversation with friends. We open a light but earthy 2019 Beaujolais Château de Fleurie, which plays beautifully with the burnished flavors of the Lamb Rendang.

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A black plate with a Lamb Rendang on top featuring sauteed greens all on a brown table.

Lamb Rendang


  • Author: The Aviary Kinderhook

Description

A bit of coconut milk makes this slow-cooked lamb undeniably buttery.


Ingredients

Scale
  • 2.53 whole rack of lamb ribs
  • 3 tbsp canola oil, divided
  • Kosher salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 6 small shallots, peeled and sliced
  • 6 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
  • 4 oz. fresh red chilies (such as fresnos, red jalapenos, bird’s eye chilies)
  • 13” knob fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
  • 3 stalks lemongrass, tender white parts only, smashed
  • 2 tsp ground coriander
  • 1 tsp ground cumin
  • 2 tsp ground turmeric
  • ½ tsp ground cardamom
  • 1 tbsp palm sugar, or more to taste
  • 3 makrut lime leaves
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 1 can full-fat coconut milk
  • 1 tbsp tamarind juice

Instructions

  1. To make the rendang paste, process shallots, garlic, chilies, ginger, and lemongrass until finely minced.
  2. In a medium saute pan over med-low heat, add 1 tbsp canola oil and add aromatic paste, spices, palm sugar, lime leaves, and cinnamon.
  3. Cook the spice paste for about 1 hour, stirring occasionally and allowing it to maintain a gentle sizzle as it deepens in color.
  4. Whenever the spice paste starts sticking to the bottom of the pan, add coconut milk a few tablespoons at a time to help dislodge the fond and continue stirring (use up all the coconut milk).
  5. By the end, the rendang paste should be deep brown in color and the coconut oil should have separated from the solids.
  6. Add tamarind juice. Allow paste to cool to room temp before using, or store in the fridge for up to 1 week.
  7. Season lamb rack with kosher salt and black pepper. Heat a large cast iron pan or dutch oven on medium-high and add 2 tbsp canola oil.
  8. When oil just starts to smoke, place lamb rack fat side down in the pan. Turn heat down to med-low and allow fat to render and brown without burning, adjusting heat as necessary (at least 10-15 mins).
  9. Once the fat has rendered, sear the remaining sides until deeply browned.
  10. Remove rack from pan and place onto a sheet tray (cool and save lamb fat for another use). Coat rack generously in rendang paste, and roast at 350F for 15 minutes or until a thermometer probe inside reads 125F.
  11. Rest for 10 minutes before slicing. Serve over coconut milk polenta or jasmine rice, simply prepared vegetables (such as garlic scapes, spring onions, swiss chard), and plenty of sambal.

Story by Keith Recker
Styling by Amy Ilias
Photography by Vera Vandenbosch
Food by The Aviary Kinderhook

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Absinthe Gimlet and Education

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A bottle of green absinthe to make a gimlet with sits on a wood table, leaning against another bottle of absinthe.

Aniseed, wormwood, and fennel. When talking absinthe, this is the holy trinity. It’s also what makes our Absinthe Gimlet so delicious.

Every bottle of the spirit contains these three botanicals, which gift the green drink its signature, herb-forward, licorice-y taste. In the case of local absinthe-maker Lawrenceville Distilling Co., this holy trio blends with brandy and distills down, making their signature 1129 Ridge Ave. Absinthe Traditionnelle.

Absinthe Education

Though the spirit has experienced a rise in popularity over the last few years, it’s had an eventful past (to say the least). Absinthe, or, as it’s famously known, the “green fairy,” has been rumored to cause hallucinations; it’s even been banned from the U.S. because of its potency and potentially toxic nature.

But, sorry to rain on your parade, absinthe does not induce madness or visions. According to Lawrenceville Distilling Co.’s FAQ page, we now know these false side effects are from alcohol poisoning and poor product regulation, leading to cheap variations with harmful ingredients.

(Another theory is that the wine industry, frustrated that drinkers were trading wine for the green stuff, started a smear campaign against absinthe. Their propaganda claimed that the spirit was responsible for violence, madness, and other dangerous acts.)

Lawrenceville Distilling Co.’s Absinthe

Lawrenceville Distilling Co., who launched their green absinthe in 2019, has even released a variation: Absinthe Rouge. Instead of absorbing chlorophyll from a bundle of hyssop, melissa, and wormwood for color, the spirit’s vibrant, luscious red comes from hibiscus. It gives the rouge spirit a more approachable, floral taste, rather than the powerful herbal qualities of the verte absinthe.

Both have plenty of uses. Try either absinthe the original way, prepared via La Louche, a process that slowly adds water to the absinthe, diluting the spirit and transforming it into a cloudy, floral-forward beverage. (A sugar cube is often in this method. You can pour water over the sugar cube, or it mix it in.)

You can also use absinthe as a rinse to prime glasses for cocktails. The current TABLE favorite, fully showcasing the spirit’s “big flavor,” is a play on the classic gimlet, using absinthe and lime juice.

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A bottle of green absinthe to make a gimlet with sits on a wood table, leaning against another bottle of absinthe.

Absinthe Gimlet


  • Author: Maggie Weaver

Description

A boldly flavored gimlet with absinthe and lime.


Ingredients

Scale

Instructions

  1. In a cocktail shaker, mix the absinthe and lime juice with ice.
  2. Pour over rocks, and add a splash of soda.

Story by Maggie Weaver
Photography and Styling by Keith Recker

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Peter Cottontail’s Easter Cocktails and Mocktails

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A Hoppity IPA Cocktail in a tall beer glass sits on a white table surrounded by Easter grass, eggs, and a gold bunny by the pastel backdrop.

Spring is in the air and Easter celebrations are hopping into full swing, which means you need selection of cocktails and mocktails to match! We asked five local mixologists to help us toast the season with a lineup of festive cocktails and mocktails inspired by the classic song, Here Comes Peter Cottontail! Their delightful concoctions capture the whimsy and joy of Easter, and you and your guests will have fun shaking, stirring, humming, as well as sipping. Enjoy!

Peter Cottontail’s Easter Cocktails and Mocktails

Here Comes Peter Cottontail

A short wine glass with a Here Comes Peter Cottontail inside as a ball of cotton candy sits over the top of the glass. A golden bunny sits in the background by a pastel backdrop.

Start your Easter brunch off with Here Comes Peter Cottontail, a refreshing cocktail or mocktail bursting with bright notes of strawberry, lemongrass, and grapefruit. But the flavor experience doesn’t stop there. Vallozzi’s mixologists, Laura Karner and Stephanie Yarup, added more to the drink. “We immediately wanted to make a fun cotton candy cocktail when we heard our assigned line was ‘Here Comes Peter Cottontail’. To welcome spring, we wanted a bright sangria with plenty of fruit and botanicals.” They complete their drink with pure fun: a puff of cotton candy garnish goes in the glass before you pour the cocktail.

Hoppin’ Down the Bunny Trail

A tall glass holds a Hoppin’ Down the Bunny Trail with a Buzzed Bunny Mimosa in an orange color with a pineapple slice garnish as the whole glass sits beside a gold cocktail shaker.

Upon hearing that his assigned lyric involved hopping down the bunny trail, Square Café’s Steven Krall pulled his juicer onto the bar. In it went fresh carrots, ginger, and pineapple. Out came the freshest, most flavorful blend of juices. (Don’t worry; for those who don’t juice, he also specifies store-bought juice equivalents in his recipe.) Then, he adds lime or lemon sparkling water and a healthy dose of prosecco – which, in the mocktail version, is omitted. With or without alcohol, the resulting quaff will have you just as bubbly and jazzed as a buzzed bunny either way.

Hippity

Two short cocktail glasses hold a Hippity rose hip and lavender easter cocktail with small purple flower garnishes and a basket of eggs sitting in the background.

Collin McNamee’s behind-the-bar genius lit up with the idea of capturing the ineffable, entirely magical quality of hippity in a glass. In his view, no doubt inspired by the hallucinogenic interior of Cobra, hippity is poetically linked to the perfumed qualities of rose hip and lavender, so his recipe starts with a colorful tea made from these floral elements. Add lemon juice and strong honey syrup to complete his mocktail version, and also a glug of the botanical notes of gin to bring a cocktail into being. The taste buds will wander happily through this garden of flavors. And, perhaps, you’ll meet the Easter bunny along the way.

Hoppity

A Hoppity IPA Cocktail in a tall beer glass sits on a white table surrounded by Easter grass, eggs, and a gold bunny by the pastel backdrop.

Hoppity evoked the seductive appeal of hops for The Commoner’s Blaise Malandra, so a hoppy IPA-based drink was inevitable. Add to that special tingling of the taste buds drops of hopped grapefruit bitters, Cynar, Sfumato, and strawberry syrup…and you get a treat that has all the appeal of jellybeans and Jolly Ranchers, but with a sophistication that’s entirely grown-up and delicious.

Easter’s On Its Way

A coupe glass holds a carrot cocktail with two basil leaves as bunny ear garnishes and golden eggs around the glasses.

What does Peter Cottontail want when he finally reaches that delightful little bar at the end of the Bunny Trail? Carrot juice, of course. Cam Dickson reaches into his stash at Ritual House
to add tequila, lemon and lime juice, vanilla syrup, and an egg white. After a hard shake in a cocktail tin, out comes a frothy, tangy, yet still sweet cocktail that would calm the nerves of even the jitteriest, travel-weary bunny. Swap out the tequila for pineapple juice in the mocktail version. Both will refresh and
delight you!

Story by Star Laliberte
Styling by Anna Franklin
Photography by Laura Petrilla

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Get Schooled on Sake

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Sake being served in a Japanese restaurant.

Drinking sake is a lot of fun, school is not. To enter the world of sake, however, you have to learn a little math, a little science, a little vocabulary, and a dash of history. Sake is delicious, but it requires a baseline level of knowledge to figure out what you’re going to like.

Sake 101

Like wine, sake’s story is a mixture of history and science, and you can approach it from wherever you want to start. If you want to nerd out about fermentation, you can do that with sake. If you want to learn about Japanese history, you can also go that way. There’s an endless amount of access points for it, but we’re going to give you a brief overview of how it’s made, what tasting notes to look for, and why it’s so good. School is in session, so take your seat…  

Sake Meter Values & Acidity

There won’t be a lot of math. We promise. You’ll just have to read a graph and remember how x and y axes work. The flavor profile of sake has a special system of measurement—SMV (Sake Meter Value) and then acidity. The graph of these two things gives you the character of what you’re drinking. Will it be dry? Sweet? Light? Heavy? A negative SMV will give you a sweeter character, while a positive one will give you a drier sake.

Courtesy of Sake Hub.

Nigori, which you’ll find a lot in the domestic market, starts at -10,” beverage director and Skurnik Wines importer Alyssa McGrath explained. This makes it ideal for the end of a meal, since it’s sweeter, like a dessert wine is.

How Do You Make Sake?

As with other types of liquor, producers have to make choices along the way that have far-reaching consequences for what goes into the bottle in the end. Beyond the acidity and SMV scale, the other things that give sake its character are polishing, koji, and whether or not the brewer decides to add in distillate, which is extra alcohol. Adding distillate changes the flavor and consistency of the final brew.

Polishing is the process by which producers mill the rice to get rid of the outer layers. Typically, the higher the polishing rate, the smoother and more delicate the product is. House of Sake produced a diagram to illustrate this concept.

A diagram about the different polishing levels in sake.
Courtesy of House of Sake.

The percentages refer to minimum rice polishing. The higher up it is on the diagram, the more premium, but the number is lower because it refers to the ratio of un-polished rice to polished rice. So, if you’re looking to impress with sake, you want to look for the lower number, since the lower it is, the more ground-down the rice is. A 50% polishing percentage means the rice is now 50% of its original size.

Along with the math, allow me to break down a brief vocabulary lesson to guide looking at the terms in the triangle:

  • Junmai means “pure rice.” This indicated that the producer didn’t add any distillate into the sake.
  • Honjozo will have a bit of distillate added in—so you get a higher alcohol percentage and a leaner body.
  • Ginjo also has an addition of a distillate, but its polishing is more refined than Honjozo, hence why they are not the same thing. As you go up the pyramid, you see the Tokubetsu (meaning “special”) and Dai (meaning “big”) prefixes to show what’s considered more refined.
  • There is a sub-style, Junmai Ginjo, that is also a higher polishing level than your typical Junmai but doesn’t have that distillate in it.

Each of the terms tell you how polished the rice is and whether it has distillate. So, looking at all the information nested in the vocabulary words, Junmai Daiginjo is a highly polished, no-distillate sake. Daiginjo is a highly polished sake that does have distillate. Tokubetsu Honjozo will be a 60% polishing percentage with the addition of distillate.

Koji: A Little Mold Goes a Long Way

Koji is a mold, but it’s not the type of mold you’re thinking. It’s what makes sake alcoholic. Normally, the idea of ingesting mold is unappealing. But in this case, koji-kin, a small, harmless to eat mold, is cultivated onto the rice during the sake-making process. All drinks that come from starches require something to break down the starch into sugars, which the yeast in the starch will eat to create alcohol. However, you can’t “malt” rice the way you can with barley. So, something else has to happen in order to create alcohol.

That’s where koji comes in. Producers grow koji is a separate part of the brewery called a koji muro and then sprinkle it onto steamed rice. The koji is in an integral part of the sake-making process and it influences the quality and flavor of the final beverage. Even the material on the walls of the koji muro can make their way into the final beverage’s flavor profile. At the higher end, there’s one more categorization: namazake or unpasteurized sake, which brewers don’t add heat to. That’s the purest form of sake, with the freshest expression of the koji in it.

The History of Sake

Ok, maybe you’re sick of looking at graphs and talking about mold now. What about the history? “Traditions of sake go back hundreds of years. There’s a big focus on the cleanliness and the pristine nature of the water. The water is part of what gives sake its regional character,” McGrath said. The technique of making sake originally came from China but gained prominence in Japan. (There are many such historical and cultural crossovers between Japan and its neighbor, such as the kanji writing system). The first recorded mention of sake in Japan is in the third century, and the first mention of commercial breweries appears in the 1400s.

Prior to that, nobles in the imperial court and monks were the only people producing sake. The imperial court even had its own sake maker in-house. The court only drank the clearest, purest sake in what we would now consider the Junmai Daiginjo style.

Sake’s first introduction to the global economy was in 1852, during the Meiji period when Japan opened its borders and entered the international trade market. Sake has taken off from there, and there are now sake producers all over the world. It’s become as prestigious as wine and whiskey, with a separate WSET certification to focus on it.

What is it Like to Drink Sake?

Yeah, yeah, history is cool, science is interesting…but beverages are for drinking.  As the graphs earlier showed, sake can be drier or sweeter. Often, you’ll find tasting notes referring to more umami (think mushroom-like savory fullness) or more floral or fruit notes depending on the koji, polishing percentage, and regionality.

Different regions of Japan produce different profiles. Kobe, famous for their beef, also produces a lot of sake. The Kobe style tends to have a fuller-body to stand up to the juicy meats. Sake from Hokkaido, by contrast, will pair well with fish, because seafood is a huge part of that region’s cuisine.

When you see “cloudy” sake, that means it’s Nigori, the sweeter style that has some sediment left over from the brewing process. Nigori sake was actually once banned in Japan, during the Meiji period when the country wanted to modernize. The Japanese government thought the clear style looked classier, so Nigori was out. But now, Nigori is one of the most popular kinds of sake for its sweet taste and relative accessibility.

An example menu from Roger Li’s Umami can help you put your knowledge to the test. See if you can recognize the terms and what each one means!

The menu at Umami, featuring a list of sake.
Courtesy of Umami.

A great way to experience sake’s diversity in practice is a sake flight, which most Asian restaurants (including Umami) offer. The differences are dramatic between different cups of sake. McGrath also encourages people to serve sake with non-Japanese food. Often, because the language seems unfamiliar, people don’t make an effort to learn about it. But sake is as versatile as any other liquor. After all of those numbers, I definitely want a carafe of sake. School’s out.

For more, check out the rest of our liquor education series:

Wondering what to cook to go with your drink? Try our food education series:

Photo by Bundo Kim
Story by Emma Riva

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Paprika Deviled Eggs

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A small brown plate holds four deviled eggs topped with paprika as a plate of pea puree triangles sit in the upper left corner.

If you’re sick of the same old recipe for deviled eggs, try adding a kick of paprika for big flavor in a small package. These hard boiled eggs hold a creamy filling of dijon, lemon, egg yolks, and seasonings in their respective white halves. The final touch is a dusting of paprika that not only adds a pop of color but also introduces a subtle, smoky pepper flavor. It’s a distinct taste that complements the richness of your usual deviled egg filling.

How Do You Get the Smoothest Deviled Egg Filling

Nobody likes lumpy Paprika Deviled Eggs. When cooking your hard-boiled eggs, you want to stop just until the yolks are firm and bright yellow which means that less is more here. To mash the yolks, you can use a fork to thoroughly break up any lumps before you add any other ingredients. If you really want an ultra-smooth texture, you can press the yolks through a fine-mesh sieve to get rid of any extra graininess. As you go to put in the dijon and other liquids, add them gradually and mix vigorously for the best results. Some cooks will also use a food processor or immersion blender to get the filling as perfect as possible.

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A small brown plate holds four deviled eggs topped with paprika as a plate of pea puree triangles sit in the upper left corner.

Paprika Deviled Eggs


  • Author: Csilla Thackray

Description

Kick up your deviled eggs with a bit of paprika.


Ingredients

Scale
  • 3 small egg yolks
  • 2 cloves of garlic finely minced or grated on a microplane
  • ½ tsp dijon
  • Juice of 1 lemon, plus more to taste
  • ½ tbs salt, plus more to taste
  • 1 ¾ cup canola oil
  • 1 tsp hot paprika
  • 6 hard-boiled eggs – see directions below

Instructions

  1. Place 6 whole eggs in a single layer and cover with cold water.
  2. Add 1/2 cup kosher salt.
  3. This seems like a lot of salt but trust me…it will not season the eggs. It simply helps to solidify your egg whites if one breaks in the water.
  4. Bring the entire pot up to a boil. Once boiling, turn the heat down to medium-high and boil between 10 and 12 minutes. If the eggs are smaller, go closer to 10, if the eggs are larger, go closer to 12.
  5. Shock the eggs in an ice bath and peel. Allow eggs to cool completely in refrigeration.
  6. In a medium mixing bowl with a flat base, vigorously whisk together egg yolks, garlic, lemon juice, and salt.
  7. Once the mixture has become frothy, begin to very slowly drizzle in the canola oil while whisking.
  8. As you add the oil in a slow, steady stream, the mixture will thicken. If it becomes too thick to whisk, splash a little cold water to smooth it out.
  9. Once all of your oil has been added, finish the aioli with paprika and taste for salt.
  10. Cut the boiled eggs in half and remove the yolks. In a food processor, combine equal parts aioli and egg yolk puree until smooth. Taste for salt.
  11. Fill the eggs with the mixture using a piping bag, making sure to over fill them slightly. Garnish with a little more paprika.

Recipes by Csilla Thackray
Styling by Keith Recker
Photography by Laura Petrilla

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