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The Lodge at Glendorn Showcases Foraging to Fine Dining

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A man in an apron holds a leg of lamb on a white plate.

The Lodge at Glendorn pairs awe-inspiring natural beauty with the tender-loving-care of a world-class resort. Abundant blackberries on the property ripen in August, and the combination of foraging and fine dining is one of many reasons to go and experience the place for your yourself. TABLE contributor Jeff Swensen visits Glendorn at one of its most special moments…

The outside of The Lodge at Glendorn with umbrellas at outside tables.

A Deep Dive Into Nature at Glendorn

There is a place, nestled at 2000 feet above sea level in the northern Allegheny Mountains where Fuller Brook, cool and gin-clear, follows a winding course into the West Branch of Tunungwant Creek. From there, it flows northward from Pennsylvania into New York before it meets the Allegheny River, on its own northbound path until Salamanca, where it makes a left turn and runs south for 300 miles until it becomes the Ohio, later the Mississippi, and eventually the Gulf of Mexico. Carved out by the denouement of the last Ice Age and greened up considerably by subsequent warming, all of this has been much as it is, humans notwithstanding, for 12,000 years.

A man casts a fishing pole at the side of a lake.

This place, The Lodge at Glendorn, the pristine-source headwaters for a huge swath of the Eastern United States, wears a coat of many colors. Its forest of Eastern hemlock, beech, black birch, sugar maple, and other species, canopies anunderstory of ferns, numerous wild mushrooms, ramps, raspberries, and blackberries. Its unwooded meadows and hillsides also host spectacular expanses of wildflowers.

The Start of a Legacy

In 1927, Clayton Glenville Dorn, frustrated when his children went away every summer to camp, bought 1200 acres along Fuller Brook, outside of Bradford. He outfitted it with all the trappings of summer camp so the children could spend the time with the family. He built a cedar, lodge-styled house and began calling the place Glendorn. It has been said that “no one passing through its gates has ever fully shaken its magic spell.”

The two chefs at Glendorn stand outside the entrance with the trees and greenery.

In 2009 the property was purchased by Cliff Forrest, who assiduously tends to The Lodge at Glendorn, a world-class Relais & Châteaux resort dedicated to preserving the peace and tranquility so notable in its flora and fauna. Whether staying in a room or suite at Glendorn, or in one of the property’s several cabins, this is a place to restore one’s harmony. Immersing in the pleasures of nature each day and then enjoying the pleasures of a fine resort each evening establishes a wonderfully relaxing rhythm.

A woman in sunglasses picks blackberries from a branch at Glendorn.

An Innovative Menu with Freshly Harvested Produce

One of the great pleasures at Glendorn is the food. In 2020, David Haick arrived as Glendorn’s executive chef. Haick is vigilant, imaginative, and has a keen understanding of the cycle of nature on the resort. With the various ephemeral ingredients offered up by the wilds of the property, Haick has infused the menu with rhythms of the seasons. “This place has made me a more patient chef, and Cliff Forrest has allowed me to be flexible in selecting the meals we offer our guests. We change the menus every day, and we are fluid and personal with the guests’ preferences.”

A person holds a small basket filled with fresh Blackberries.

A Focus on Blackberries

Each August, for the past five years, The Lodge at Glendorn has had a weekend blackberry festival, where both chefs and guests forage along woodland trails, harvesting its bountiful wild blackberry crop. Their takings make their way into breads, compound butters, jams, main courses, and of course, desserts.

A stack of pancakes and blackberries gets syrup poured onto them amongst a breakfast setting.

Blackberries grow in the wild on every continent except Australia and Antarctica. They have the highest antioxidant content per serving of any food. They are not true berries; each little bump in the berry is itself a fruit containing a seed, called a drupelet. Perfectly ripe in the third week of August each year, the blackberries are timeless in their millennia of ripening in the woodlands surrounding Fuller Brook. The youngest of Glendorn’s blackberry foragers also find them very timely as they eat every other berry that they pluck off the bushes.

Story and Photography by Jeff Swensen

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Pickle Spritz Cocktail Recipe

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A short glass holds a pickle spritz on a white picnic table topped with rolled pickles, cocktail onions, and fresh dill.

Pickles. You love them or you hate them. And, if you really love them, you want them in absolutely everything. Which is exactly why we crafted the Pickle Spritz, the perfect cocktail recipe to refresh you in the heat of summer, and possibly after a challenging day during any season. It sports a fizzy, spritzy base of Prosecco and Dry Vermouth but the addition of pickle brine adds that tangy, salty, almost sweet flavor that you crave. The best part is you can customize the ingredient measurements: more Dry Vermouth or more pickle brine, according to your taste. So, rejoice pickle fans! You’ve just found your perfect summer cocktail.

With our offices stationed in Pittsburgh, we couldn’t help but be inspired by the famous annual Picklesburgh festival held every July, known as the Best Specialty Food Festival in America.

What is a Spritz? 

The light and bubbly spritz boasts a delightful balance of sweet and bitter flavors. At its core, a spritz is has a simple three-part construction. Prosecco, a light sparkling Italian wine, forms the base. Then, a bitter liqueur like Aperol or Campari or Dry Vermouth balances out the sweetness. Finally, a splash of soda water finishes off the drink but in our case, we add rich, flavorful pickle brine. The result is a low-alcohol beverage (often around 9% ABV) that’s as visually appealing as it is refreshing.

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A short glass holds a pickle spritz on a white picnic table topped with rolled pickles, cocktail onions, and fresh dill.

Pickle Spritz Cocktail Recipe


  • Author: Star Laliberte

Ingredients

Scale
  • 3/4 oz Dry Vermouth
  • 1 1/4oz pickle brine
  • 34 oz Prosecco
  • Pickles, cocktail onions, and fresh dill for garnish

 


Instructions

  1. In a chilled balloon glass with a square cocktail cube, add Vermouth and pickle brine.
  2. Stir and top off with Prosecco.
  3. Spear pickle curls and cocktail onions on a cocktail stick. With a sprig of dill, use the spear to garnish the drink. Enjoy.

Recipe and Styling by Star Laliberte
Photography by Dave Bryce

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Gold Medal Cocktail for The Olympics

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A cocktail glass sits on a white background with a fizzy Gold Medal drink inside and a sprig of rosemary on top.

Forget the victory lap. Raise a victory glass! The Olympics are almost here and to celebrate the pinnacle of athletic achievement we’ve crafted the Gold Medal cocktail. This vibrant drink isn’t just a tribute to the podium’s top spot, it’s a burst of citrus flavor and bubbles that capture the Olympic spirit in whole. Plus, with just four ingredients, the simplicity of this drink is perfect for making bigger batches at Olympic runner speed for the best watch party cocktail. The rosemary garnish reminds us of the ancient crown of laurel leaves a winner would receive!

Best Champagne to Use for Cocktails

When it comes to champagne in cocktails, you’re better off opting for a non-vintage bottle. Premium champagnes are best enjoyed on their own to appreciate the complex flavors that you’d miss in a cocktail. For cocktails, a drier style with high acidity works best. This cuts through the sweetness of other ingredients and prevents the drink from getting too cloying. Look for Brut Nature or Extra Brut on the label, which indicates minimal added sugar.

Champagne overflows into a glass with golden colored liquid and a sprig of rosemary.

Gold Medal Cocktail Recipe

Gold Medal Cocktail Ingredients

  • .5 oz orange juice
  • 1.5 oz cognac
  • .5 oz simple syrup
  • Champagne to top

Cocktail Preparation Instructions

  1. Pour cognac, simple syrup, and orange juice into a shaking tin.
  2. Add ice and shake.
  3. Strain into a champagne flute.
  4. Top with champagne.
  5. Enjoy!

Where Can I Watch the 2024 Paris Olympics?

The 2024 Summer Olympics are currently underway in Paris till the closing ceremony on August 11. You can catch all the thrilling action live on NBC or by using the NBC app, NBC Sports app, or Peacock app. Many events will be taking place during early morning hours due to the time difference, but there will also be primetime highlights and replays throughout the day. With 32 sports and hundreds of medal events, you’re sure to catch at least one match from the 2024 Olympics!

Recipe and Styling by Zack Durkin
Story by Kylie Thomas
Photography by Dave Bryce

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Bread Making Tips for Perfectionist Bakers

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A large loaf of bread in a baker's hands

I have cried so many times over bread. Not in a “this crumb is so ethereal it’s bringing me to tears” sort of way. Rather in an “I just spent three days making this and it’s flat as a pancake sort of way.” If you can relate, I’ve been speaking with bakers around Pittsburgh to get their advice on bread tips for baking at home.

“You will probably make some bad loaves in the beginning.”

Third Space Bakery is a new worker-owned cooperative in the Garfield neighborhood of Pittsburgh serving up beautiful breads and pastries as well as classes for those curious to learn. I spoke with Chloe Newman, their self-described “head bread-head” for her tips on bread baking. First, she advises to start with quality ingredients. At Third Space, they use locally grown organic grains. Even if you aren’t accessing local grain, Chloe says to keep things fresh. “If there’s a bag of bread flour that’s been sitting in your pantry for over a year, it’s time to compost it.” She also says whole wheat flours should be stored in the fridge or freezer.

If you are baking sourdough bread like Chloe does, the quality of those ingredients will translate into an effective sourdough starter. (For a full look at how make a sourdough starter, visit King Arthur Baking’s website). The starter is the basis for your bread, so mastering this is really the first step. Chloe recommends feeding your starter with a least a small amount of whole grain flour, “which brings more nutrients for the microbial culture to feed on and grow.”

Once you have a healthy and active starter, you’re ready to begin making bread. For a classic sourdough ,The Perfect Loaf has a straightforward Best Sourdough Recipe. “You will probably make some bad loaves in the beginning” says Driftwood Oven’s head baker Alaina Philips. That being said, she doesn’t want home bakers to be intimidated by sourdough. Her first tip is to make the timing work for you rather than the other way around.

“Every professional bread baker I’ve ever worked with has been like less is more.”

Many people think they have to follow specific timing when working with bread, so their loaves are not under- or over-proofed. While this is an important consideration to make, Aliana says that  that with sourdough, time is your friend. Make that time work for you, rather than feeling like you need to be tied to the kitchen all day. If the recipe you are following gives a specific schedule, you don’t have to feel tied to it. She says to let the bread proof overnight if that is what works with your schedule. Alaina acknowledges that there are different types of bakers. “Touch, taste, see, that is the kind of baker that I am.” But she knows other people may want to be more meticulous. Just know that it’s ok to leave your bread at home if you need to run an errand.

Grayson Skupin, former pastry chef and Food Studies masters student at Chatham University advises to keep things simple. “Every professional bread baker I’ve ever worked with has been like less is more. You don’t need fancy shaping. They’re beautiful and if that’s what you’re into that’s cool, but it’s not necessary.” They told me, even if you think you’ve messed things up, to bake it anyway. “You never know how something’s going to turn out.”

“Touch, Taste, See”

And if those loaves don’t turn out perfectly the first, second, or third time, “it’s just more bread to eat, you know?” Alaina advises not to give up. Those first few loaves are how you will learn the “touch, taste, see” that you need to be able to understand when your dough is ready to bake. Both Aliana and Chloe emphasized that they have baked many “bad” loaves while learning to make great ones.

Just because your loaves aren’t picture perfect doesn’t mean they’re not delicious. Both bakers also caution in their bread making tips against comparing yourself to others on social media while you’re learning. “It doesn’t have to be that Instagram worthy, you know. Is it worthy for your family? Is it worthy for your friends?” Ultimately, it’s not about perfection. It’s about sharing and growing and personally I think that is worth making time for.

If sourdough isn’t your thing or isn’t where you want to start your bread baking journey, these bakers want you to know that it’s not the only option. “There is nothing wrong with using commercial yeast,” Grayson says. Chloe hopes bakers explore the ever-expanding options available to bread bakers. “Instagram and TikTok will tell you that bread is only worth making if it has a big white web of gluten on the inside, with a crackly golden crust. There are so many other more nutritious and tastier ways to make bread with other grains, from different cultures, with different stories and uses in the kitchen. Find a recipe you are excited to make, and then just go for it.” If you are looking for some easy, accessible recipes to get started, check out 6 Easy Bread Recipes for Bakers of All Levels for some ideas.

But what do I do with all this bread?

But what do I do with all this bread? Ok, so you’re practicing and maybe your loaves aren’t the best. Or maybe you’ve gotten the hang of it and now you have more bread than you can eat! I asked the bakers for tips on how to store or use up that extra bread. For keeping bread fresh, they say not to slice the whole loaf at once and to store in the freezer if you know you won’t use it all at once. For those less than perfect loaves, “breadcrumbs are always a good idea. You know, if it’s really tight and really bad.” For bread that might be going stale they recommend bread pudding, a panzanella salad, French toast, or savory strata.

But what Alaina really wants people to know is that you can revive bread that is stale. “Just give it a shower!” she says. Alaina explains that if you have a loaf of bread that has become hard and stale, you can revive it by running the whole loaf under water from the sink then putting it in the oven to bake. This tip she says will bring a stale loaf back to that fresh bread taste and texture we all crave.

Speaking with these bakers, I wished I had any one of them guiding me on my initial sourdough journey. Perhaps the knowledge that bread baking is a journey filled with pancake loaves and dense crumb would have saved me some tears. But that initial heartache gave me knowledge to use for a lifetime. While I may not have the prettiest loaves on the internet, cutting into a fresh loaf with my family standing by always seems to fill their faces with anticipation and delight.

Story by Kirsten Chervenak / Photo courtesy of Monika Grabkowska via Unsplash

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Just What is Frozen Custard, Anyways?

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A tableau of frozen custard, vanilla, chocolate, and caramel, in multi-colored pints

Italian ice. Sno-Cones. Icees. Gelato. Popsicles. Plain old ice cream. Summer is the season for desserts that fall into the category of “cold substances with flavor.” But a mystery is the dessert sold as “frozen custard.” This name left me with a lot of questions. How do you freeze custard? Why would you want to?

Some of us in the Mid-Atlantic region first encountered frozen custard at Rita’s. Rita’s is a chain mostly famous for its Italian ices. Or, “water ices,” as the business’s Philadelphia founder might call them. In the TABLE office, the frozen custard discussion began with debates over Rita’s. Associate Online Editor Kylie Thomas orders a Swedish fish Italian ice with a twist of chocolate and vanilla frozen custard at Rita’s. Editor-in-chief Keith Recker came down hard that Rita’s is not “real frozen custard” but rather a melange of “whipped frozen Crisco and chalk.” Thus began a frozen custard quest.

The Frozen Custard Story

As it turns out, there is a legal definition of frozen custard. The Food & Drug Administration apparently says that for something to be frozen custard and not ice cream, it must contain 1.4% egg yolks by weight. A lot of ice cream does contain eggs, but the specific egg value is what makes the frozen custard, well, custard. (Editor-in-chief’s note: No chalk is supposed to be involved.)

Frozen custard has its origins on the Coney Island boardwalk. At the turn of the twentieth century, ice cream vendors Archie and Elton Kohr—like many of the best things in life, frozen custard is the invention of just two guys in Brooklyn wanting to make a buck—who thought that adding egg yolks to their ice cream created a smoother texture and would make it last longer in the heat.

It then spread to traveling carnivals across the country. That was where tennis player Ted Drewes encountered it and saw a business opportunity during the tennis off-season. (Because of course, it’s a natural progression from playing tennis to selling frozen custard, right?) Drewes brought it to his home city of St. Louis, Missouri, where it is the go-to treat of the summer. St. Louis is now one of the frozen custard centers of America, along with other urban centers across the Midwest. Perhaps the region’s prolific dairy farms have something to do with this.

The 1933 World’s Fair further popularized the dessert in Wisconsin and Missouri. For Midwesterners frozen custard is part of terroir of the heartland. Danny Meyer, founder of Shake Shack, frequented Ted Drewes chains before bringing custard to the his own beloved chain of restaurants. There are countless articles about sentimental attachment to summer nights in frozen custard stand parking lots in. Iowa, Wisconsin, Missouri, Michigan and Illinois. What I initially thought was just a subvariety of ice cream has a deeper regional history for people who grew up around it.

A Frozen Custard Journey

From the Midwest, frozen custard made its way to our home of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. But to nationalize this question of just what frozen custard is and what makes it good, we enlisted Zack Durkin from our sales team. As a native of Rochester, NY, Zack grew up eating frozen custard at Abbott’s, a chain across western New York. He happened to be going to his hometown for the Fourth of July during our custard discussions, and he agreed to bring back pints of the Proustian ur-frozen-custard of his childhood.

Kylie and I went to Jerry’s Custard and Glen’s Frozen Custard, two independently owned custard and ice cream spots in Pittsburgh. Jerry’s had customers hanging out in the parking lot in the afternoon on a weekday. A very good sign. We ordered chocolate, vanilla, and one specialty flavor from each spot for consistency of flavor.

What we found was that one of the biggest indicators of custard quality is texture. Jerry’s had a creamy but not heavy texture that played across the palate in ways that Glen’s and Abbott’s did not. Editor-in-chief Keith remarked that it “just says ‘eat more of me.’” Evidence to support this inner voice: there also was only one almost-empty container of Jerry’s left in the freezer after our taste test. Our team ate entire pints of the vanilla and caramel flavors. The Glen’s, though our readers on Instagram cited it as their favorite, did not impress as much as we had hoped.

As we found in our condiment taste testing, there’s also a personal attachment to brands that transcends the actual taste and quality of the product. Director of Operations Star Laliberte loves Glen’s and would claim it as her ice cream of choice. But in the custard lineup, Jerry’s was what she liked best.

Our contender from Rochester, Abbott’s, had some of the strongest flavors. Of the chocolates, Abbott’s was the office favorite. The addition of eggs to chocolate ice cream really added dimension to a flavor I normally don’t like because of its richness. This was a surprise to me. The Abbott’s chocolate tasted like actual chocolate rather than frozen chocolate syrup.

Taste tests, as I’ve found in previous experiments with condiments and natural wine, challenge what we think about what we eat and drink. But it’s hard to argue with the deliciousness of frozen custard in summer. What is “real frozen custard”? It might just be the frozen custard that you, personally, remember and enjoy. Maybe that’s Rita’s. (Editor-in-chief’s note: It shouldn’t be.) Maybe that’s Jerry’s. More than the percentage of eggs in the frozen custard we tried, sharing it with friends was what made it memorable.

Story by Emma Riva / Photography by Dave Bryce

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Absinthe Spritz

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An absinthe spritz on a white background

Are you sick of aperol spritzes? Yes, they’re delicious and refreshing. But, if you want to be a little edgier, this absinthe spritz is a way to elevate your spritz game during summer. We’ve used green absinthe for this drink. However, absinthe also comes in red and clear if you’d like to change things up a little bit. Green absinthe typically is “absinthe traditionelle,” but absinthe rouge could also make a fun spritz.

Three bottles of absinthe in green, clear, and red sit on a white picnic table.

Absinthe, a Drink for the Outsiders 

Absinthe has a rich history. Don’t just take our word for it. Master distiller Joe Degroot of Lawrenceville Distilling, whose absinthe traditionelle we used for this recipe, fell in love with absinthe after having it in a Sazerac in New Orleans. Its history is steeped in the bohemian subcultures of poets and artists in Europe in the 1800s, and that countercultural history led to the myth that it causes you to hallucinate. In reality, absinthe will not make you trip, but it does have up to 72% alcohol content, so drink responsibly…and perhaps lighten it up a bit as part of a Spritz!

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An absinthe spritz on a white background

Absinthe Spritz


  • Author: Keith Recker

Description

A new take on a summer spritz.


Ingredients

Scale
  • 1 sprig fresh mint
  • 1 thick slice of lime
  • 1 oz lime juice
  • 2 oz vodka
  • 2 oz absinthe
  • Ice, as needed
  • Club soda, as needed
  • Fresh mint, lime slices, and 1 generously sized cucumber spear (optional) for garnish


Instructions

  1. In a glass, muddle mint and lime.
  2. Add ice, absinthe and vodka.
  3. Give a gentle stir.
  4. Top with club soda and garnish with fresh mint and lime slices or a cucumber spear before serving.

More Absinthe Ideas

Recipe by Keith Recker
Photography by Dave Bryce

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Oasiq is Creating Modern Takes on Classic Scandinavian Design

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A red chair on a porch deck overlooking a scenic, lush view

Trying to find modern, minimalist outdoor pieces can be difficult. They’re often too severe and don’t look particularly inviting. Oasiq, a company that hails from Brooklyn’s hot hot hot Industry City complex, is a go-to source for hotels and private homes alike.

The pieces have clean lines and an appealing lack of fussy details, but still look (and are!) comfortable. The brand specializes in plantation teak and has a quick-shipping option for most of its products (so there’s still time to get it for this summer!)

Visit their site for more information and where to buy. You can also check out some of TABLE’S other design guides for more inspiration on how to furnish your home.

A deck with a chair and tables on a sunny day, from Oasiq furniture

Copenhagen

This Scandinavian-inspired collection of teak and rope seating, dining tables, and coffee tables combines Nordic simplicity with graceful curves and softened edges.

Nordic-inspired barstools on a table by Oasiq

Bryggen

Named for the UNESCO world heritage site in Norway, it is a collection of minimalist tables and chairs made from teak and stainless steel with a weightless feel.

A red chair on a white background

Sandur

The hand-applied, open-weave rope over steel frames means that means you are cradled in a soft, supportive matrix. It also reduces contact with hard surfaces.

Story by Stephen Treffinger / Photography courtesy of Oasiq 

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Georgia O’Keeffe’s “My New Yorks” Shows New Side of Artist

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Georgia O'Keeffe at the Art Institute of Chicago, two guests in front of a painting

Georgia O’Keeffe is, of course, famous for her flowers and her landscapes of the Southwest, but she also lived (and worked) for several years in New York City. She captured its architectural details and urban energy alike in paintings, drawings, and pastels. This new exhibition at the Art Institute of Chicago covers Georgia O’Keeffe‘s time in New York. It shows the connection between O’Keeffe’s art and architecture.

In 1924, O’Keefe moved into the Shelton Hotel, then the tallest residential building in the world. She spent five years there and—inspired by her residence and her surroundings—painted and drew prolifically in a variety of media, scales, and subject matters.

For more information, check out this essay: Skyscraper Living: Georgia O’Keeffe and the Shelton Hotel. It tells how her high-rise home helped shape her modernist vision.

Related talks at the Art Institute

Georgia O’Keeffe artwork displayed in museum exhibition gallery setting

August 15: Conversation: Impossible Ideas—Georgia O’Keeffe and Aaron Douglas Envision the City

From AIC website: Join curator Sarah Kelly Oehler and professor Adrienne Brown for a conversation on Georgia O’Keeffe and Aaron Douglas. Both spent the 1920s approaching the “impossible idea” of making the city their subject.

Art gallery installation featuring Georgia O’Keeffe paintings and display

August 31: Saturday Studio: O’Keeffe and the Urban Landscape

From AIC website: Take inspiration from Georgia O’Keeffe: “My New Yorks” and experience the pleasure of drawing the city en plein air. With O’Keeffe’s visual sensibilities as guide, you can create bold and personal interpretations of the Art Institute’s idyllic North Garden. The surrounding urban landscape is a medium O’Keeffe made her own while responding to the built and natural environment.

Story by Stephen Treffinger / Photo courtesy of Art Institute of Chicago

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Bunny Williams’ New Elegant Outdoor Furniture

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A Bunny Williams outdoor table with two chairs sitting at it and flowers resting on the brown table.

New York-based designer Bunny Williams has always been associated with visually interesting, charming, and versatile outdoor furniture. And this new collection, as always, showcases her exceptional eye for detail. These pieces are so nice they’d look good indoors as well—but keep them outside and they’re reward you by developing beautiful patinas.

Bunny Williams’ New Outdoor Furniture

A Bunny Williams white outdoor couch sits outside on a deck behind a brown outdoor table.

Medallion Coffee Table 

A Ming-style, medallion-cornered table Bunny once admired inspired this decorative outdoor coffee table, in sustainable teak. The slatted top lets water pass through when it rains.

A Bunny Williams outdoor table with two chairs sitting at it and flowers resting on the brown table.

Silhouette Dining Table

Taking the outdoor dining table to new levels, it begins with a recombinated quatrefoil base and streamlined feet. Made of sustainably sourced that will weather beautifully. 

A Bunny Williams brown bench sits outside with a plant, books, and a scarf sitting on it.

Georgian Bench  

A fresh way of using teak, the new Georgian bench is sandblasted and unstained, celebrating the strength of the durable hardwood. The form is inspired by an early 20th century English form.  

A larger outdoor brown wicker chair with a white cousin sits by a brown table.

Crofter’s Dining Chair, Lounge Chair, and Sofa 

Inspired by traditional forms and made in all-weather wicker, this elegant outdoor group also features teak end caps on the arms of each piece plus durable Sunbrella upholstery.  

A Bunny Williams Louis chair sits outside in front of a brown table.

Louis Teak Dining Chair  

Possibly the most fun outdoor chair ever, in a traditional Louis XVI shape. Made from sustainably sourced teak, which will weather to a warm, silvery gray plus all-weather wicker. 

A Bunny Williams small blue pattern garden stool with two books on top sits beside a white chair.

Pheasant Feather Garden Stool  

An intentionally drippy, traditional sancai glaze and applied to a barrel-form garden stool equals a chic and one-of-a-kind piece for your garden.

Complete your summer shopping with our handpicked portable grill options perfect for get-togethers anywhere.

Story Stephen Treffinger / Photos Courtesy of Bunny Williams

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Venice, La Serenissima

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A maskamaker in Venice in a plague doctor like mask outside his shop
An artisan outside Ca' Macana mask shop

My parents took me to Venice for the first time when I was 5 years old. I don’t remember much, but I still have the Polaroids. If not for the vintage clothes and the faded colors, they could very well have been taken today. Venice has the charm of bygone times. It may show signs of age, but it retains an immortal beauty. 

Gondola maintenance in the Squero

 

I lived in the city during college, then fell in love with its hidden corners. It has an authentic soul, far from the spotlight and the chaos. As soon as you arrive and walk down the stairs of the train station, you find yourself immersed in another dimension, made of colors, sounds, smells and glimpses of life that don’t exist elsewhere.

The archway of the bridge of sighs
The “Bridge of Sighs”

 

Despite the frenzy of tourists who crowd iconic locations nearly year-round, life here goes at a slower pace. With no cars, bicycles, or electric scooters, one walks, observes, listens. This makes you more receptive to everything. Take a side alley and lose yourself in a quiet, almost unreal, beauty.

Get Lost 

I suggest taking at least a couple of hours to literally get lost. Move away from the crowd and turn where your heart guides you. Wherever you go, the city will amaze you with charming views, lonely bridges over silent canals, neighborhood shops, and small bacari (bars) where only locals go.

A baker in Venice works on confections in a glass case
A “bacaro” in Venice

 

In winter, the feeling is amplified by the fog, whose embrace often makes the city even more mysterious and romantic. To me, this is the best time to visit: the gloomy yet idyllic beauty is unparalleled. Another benefit: fewer visitors arrive at this time.

Iconic locations around Rialto and San Marco are a must, but any and every corner is worth seeing. History, art, breathtaking views are literally everywhere, there is not one inch that’s not intriguing. The magic of Venice relies on its colors, dreamy atmosphere, and enchanting light descending upon the water.

A place where gondolas dock in Venice
Gondolas at Rialto

 

Despite its global fame, Venice is a people-oriented city, where everyone seems to know each other. From fishmongers to gondoliers, from restaurateurs to mask makers, from florists to bartenders, it is like a large neighborhood where you can stop and chat with everyone, and everyone seems willing to give you a hand.

Two gondolieri in Venice in striped shirts, black pants, and wide-brim hats
Two gondolieri chat by the canal


What to Eat

One of the best ways to experience life as locals do is visiting the Rialto fish market, especially on Saturday morning, when people hunt for deals on local delicacies as well as more common varieties of fish and seafood. Venice’s saltwater setting is expressed in its cuisine. The classic dish sarde in saor (marinated sardines) was born because sailors needed a way to preserve fish for their long trips.

Fish for 9.80 euros laid out artfully on a tray
Sea bream for sale at Venice’s Rialto market

 

Other popular dishes also draw from the lagoon and the seas beyond: spaghetti with clams, baccalà mantecato (creamed salt cod), linguini with scampi, risotto with squid ink, polenta with schie (local tiny shrimp), stewed or roasted baby octopus, scallops au gratin and fried moléche (local soft-shell crabs).

A man stands at a fish market vendor table in Venice
The Venetian fish market near the Rialto Bridge

 

Venetian cuisine is also rich in seasonal ingredients from the surrounding region: famous are white asparagus, radicchio, artichokes and savoy cabbage, many of which are grown on the island of Sant’Erasmo in the Venetian lagoon, known as “the garden of Venice.”

A smoked salmon platter on a white background
A smoked salmon platter from Beccafico restaurant


An Unforgettable Experience

Many of the walkways of Venice are full of local artisans who sell their creations, which are beautiful enough to withstand the competition of cheaper, mass-produced goods.

Mask makers and glassblowers are the most famous, but you will also find leatherworkers, tailors, bookbinders, jewelers, potters, lacemakers, luthiers, shoemakers, and much more. Hunt for local shops and be seduced by the uniqueness of handmade masks, bags, cloaks, dresses, hats, necklaces, footwear, and household items.

A set of colorful masks at a Venetian shop
Famed Venetian masks and brocade Carnevale dress

 

Fine art also abounds, both in the form of the city’s architecture as well as in hundreds of museums, exhibitions, shows, installations and cultural events. The city has the Film Festival, as well as the world-famous art and architecture Biennale every two years. There are also rotating museum exhibitions dedicated to internationally renowned artists to small galleries devoted to emerging ones.

The archways of the Colonnade in San Marco
The colonnade of the Doge’s Palace in Piazza San Marco

 

Venice is a buzzing place. Its beauty transcends mere aesthetics, a testament to the ingenuity, artistry, and spirit of its people. The city is an experience, one that still amazes me even after all these years.

Story and photography by Sara Ghedina

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