Za’atar is a remarkable coming together of earthy/resinous cumin and oregano, with the sour brightness of sumac, salt, and sesame seeds. Plus, it’s easy to make. In this za’atar recipe, I’ve taken the spirit of it and used shiso’s wonderful cumin and mint flavor in place of actual cumin and oregano. (Shiso’s botanical name is Perilla frutescens, and it belongs to the mint family. Indigenous to the mountains of China and India, it is used frequently in Asian cuisines for its intriguing aroma and flavor.) It works perfectly and allows for more experimentation than buying za’atar from the store. Once you start homemaking things, you’ll never go back to store-bought. This za’atar recipe is no exception.
How Does This Homemade Za’atar Recipe Get Its Flavor?
The sourness that’s missing from this, but that Mexican oregano brings to my za’atar, is balanced by using good sharp apples. I prefer a “cider” apple that’s naturally more sour. When I had a couple of sweeter apples, I made this with Vietnamese coriander instead of shiso to balance out the flavors. In that case, the implied sourness of its lemon and coriander flavor worked a treat to make the other herbs.

Apple, Pancetta and Shiso ‘Za’atar’ Recipe
Description
Make your own za’atar!
Ingredients
- 2 little gem lettuces, quartered
- 4 tbsp olive oil
- 3 ½ oz pancetta or lardons
- 2 tart apples
- 3 tbsp red wine vinegar
- 1 tbsp Dijon mustard (optional)
- 10 leaves shiso, thinly sliced if large
- 3 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted in a dry pan
- 2 tsp sumac
- Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Instructions
- Heat a dry frying pan over a high heat and sear the two cut sides of the little gem quarters: you’re looking for quick charring while retaining crunch. Remove from the drying pan and arrange on a platter. Add the oil to the pan and cook the pancetta for about 5 minutes until golden and it has released its fat.
- Meanwhile, thinly slice the apples (equatorially rather than polar), remove the seeds and scatter the slices over the lettuce. Take the pan off the heat and use a slotted spoon to lift the lardons onto the gems, keeping the oil in the pan.
- Stir the vinegar and mustard into the oil in the pan and drizzle over the salad. Sprinkle the shiso, sesame seeds and sumac over the salad, and season generously with salt and pepper.
Recipe and Photography by Mark Diacono
Excerpted with permission from Herb by Mark Diacono (Quadrille Publishing). Photography by Mark Diacono. Read his herb tips as part of our food education series.
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