While traveling through Lochcarron in Scotland’s West Highlands, TABLE Magazine Editor-in-Chief Keith Recker met Gordon Valle, a dedicated Scotch enthusiast with a serious personal collection. Valle later welcomed Keith into his home for a private tasting and a chance for a new perspective on Scotch. We get his thorough appreciation in a Q&A about what Scotch actually is, what all the words on labels mean, and how to start tasting yourself.

Scotch Insights from Gordon Valle

What Defines Scotch? How Does a Whisky Qualify as Scotch, and How is It Different from American Whiskey? Japanese Whiskey? 

Gordon Valle: For a whisky to qualify as Scotch it has to be distilled and matured in barrels in Scotland. I believe the name “Scotch whisky” has protected status  in much the same way as Champagne can only be made in the Champagne region of France.  

Scotch (or Malt Whisky as it’s more commonly referred to in Scotland) is made from malted barley and must be aged in barrels for at least three years and a day. The barrels used to mature a Scotch whisky are often re-used barrels so previously may have been used for sherry, rum or bourbon for example. These different casks give the particular whisky the unique flavours of these barrels which cater for a variety of tastes. I am quite fond of a sherry cask myself! The flavour of a good malt can also be influenced by the environment where it is made, for example, salty flavours if the whisky is made by the sea – Oban is a great example of this. Peaty or smokey flavours are also common in malts. 

American whiskey is made from corn and other grains and matured in virgin oak barrels. I’m not too familiar with the process of making American whiskey other than that (and that it’s got an extra ‘e’ in it’s name!!!) 

I believe that, although the Japanese whiskey industry is relatively young, they have studied the processes used in Scotland meticulously, and attempted to follow very similar methods. Many Japanese whiskies have a very good reputation for quality as, indeed, many have sourced materials and expertise from Scotland in helping set up and run their operations. 

How Does One Go About Decoding the Label? How Do You Interpret Common Terms Like “Single Malt,” “Blended,” and Age Statements (e.g., “12-year-old”)? Which of These Should a Novice Pay Attention To? 

GV: The term single malt basically means whisky made from malted barley at one distillery. Blended Scotch can be made from whisky produced from multiple distilleries. Single malt is often seen as an indication of quality. This is true to a certain extent but there are some very good blended Scotch options out there too – just to confuse things! 

The age of the Scotch indicates the minimum amount of time the whisky has spent in the barrel. So say you have a 12 year old single malt, all of the Scotch must be from the same distillery. If, for example, the 12 year old single malt came from 3 barrels and had spent 18 years, 15 years, and 12 years in those separate barrels, it could only be called a 12 year old even though some of the Scotch used was 18 years old because it goes by the minimum amount. I hope that makes sense! 

Generally the more time Scotch spends in the barrel, the smoother it becomes and the more flavour it picks up from the barrel. As a rule of thumb the older the Scotch the better it gets. There is a lot of nuance to consider other than the age of Scotch when determining the quality however. 

What Are the Key Elements of the Flavor Profile of Scotch? What Do You Look For When You’re Choosing a Scotch? 

GV: Scotch can have multiple flavour elements to make up the overall taste and smell of the whisky. The main flavours are; maltiness (sweet), peat/smoke, vanilla and caramel, fruit and spice, oak and wood spice. 

Personally, when I’m looking for a Scotch, I enjoy tasting something that I haven’t tried before so I look for something unusual. In general though I don’t like anything too peaty. That being said, I have friends who will not drink Scotch unless it is the most peaty Scotch possible so it’s quite an individual thing. I would say that for someone starting out choosing a Speyside Scotch is a good place to start. 

What Is Peat? How Does It Influence the Taste of a Peated Scotch? What’s the Best Way for a Beginner to Approach a Peated Whisky? 

GV: Peat is a type of fuel that was traditionally used to heat homes in Scotland in the Highlands and Islands. It is dug or “cut” from the ground, dried out and burned in open fires or stoves to heat homes. It is very rare to see peat used to heat homes in modern times as more efficient and cleaner alternatives are available.

In the whisky industry peat is used to toast the barley to dry it out before the malting process. When peat is burned it creates a very strong and distinctive smoky smell and this flavour is transferred to the barley and ultimately the whisky. The level of peaty taste in the Scotch really depends on how much peat is used during this process. 

For a beginner tasting peated whisky, I would start with something lightly peated and work up. It seems to be an acquired taste. Most of the heavily peated whisky tends to come from the island of Islay so maybe work up to that! But don’t be put off from peaty/smoky whisky. If you go to Islay there are many different distilleries where peated whisky is made – proving its popularity.  

How Should a Novice Properly Taste Scotch? What Are the Basic Steps of a Scotch Tasting—From Glassware and Nosing to the First Sip. Should We Add Water? 

GV: There are many opinions on how to taste Scotch. Generally a little water is recommended to release the flavours . Some would say you must do this or must do that but really I think you should do what you like. If you like a few ice cubes in your glass, have ice. If you like a splash of water, have water. Whatever gets you the most enjoyment and taste – I would, however, draw the line at mixing with Coca-Cola though!  

The different flavours can be nosed (smelled), tasted on the palate or on the finish. This taste of flavour on the finish is why tasting a good malt cannot be rushed. Savouring that warm lingering finish is a must. 

As far as glassware is concerned the Glencairn style glass is popular for tasting. It has a heavy base, is bulbous at the bottom and narrows towards the lip of the glass. This allows you to swirl the Scotch easily. Then you can smell or “nose” through the narrow top where the smell is now concentrated. Again, glassware is down to personal preference. I prefer a good quality, wide based heavy glass to relax and sip from. 

What Are Some Approachable and Affordable Bottles You Would Recommend to a Newcomer?  

GV: To get started I can’t see past an Oban 14 year old. It is the Scotch that got me started and is a classic all rounder. Although I am a bit biased as it is from the West Highlands like me! 

If you would like to try an Islay Scotch but don’t want anything too peaty then Classic Laddie from the Bruichladdich Distillery is a good option. Just overlook the slightly garish bottle. 

There are many good Speyside malts to choose from and this is a good place for a beginner to start. I quite like Balvenie and they do lots of different cask options. If you are looking for something sweeter you could try the Balvenie Caribbean Cask. 

As mentioned earlier Islay is generally the place to find the more smokey/peated Scotch. But, there is also Talisker from the Isle of Skye to consider if you are feeling brave! Many new distilleries are opening up each year. The Harris distillery is now producing its Hearach collection which is proving very popular.

Story by Gordon Valle
Photography by Cody Baker

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