British food has a bad reputation. There’s a reason why our list of locals’ London restaurant recommendations features more Indian food than British. But even if baked beans on soggy toast and black pudding don’t sound appetizing, no one can deny that the Brits know how to do afternoon tea. Tea is a ritual; a moment to pause; a production. To visit London without experiencing it would be a shame — as I can attest that even the best American versions of the ritual pale in comparison. So, take outfit inspiration from Kate Middleton, block out the hours from 3-5 p.m., and plan to have a light lunch and a long walk because London tea is something to prepare for.
6 London Tea Recommendations
Fortnum & Mason
181 Piccadilly
When you think of the color turquoise, the two brands that probably come to mind are Tiffany’s and Fortnum and Mason. Enter the lavishly decorated, turquoise-and-teal-heavy Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon and prepare to be treated to an experience. As a British icon, Fortnum and Mason’s tea services live up to expectations. Choose between high tea, savory tea, and regular tea menus (high tea is more substantial, while the regular menu is lighter and usually served earlier in the day). Either way, feast on coronation chicken finger sandwiches, scones with clotted cream, and scotch eggs with Piccalilli. To get your money’s worth, you can request seconds of anything. Afterwards, browse the multi-floor department store and take home some tea of your own to remember the experience by.
Beaumont Hotel
8 Balderton St, Brown Hart Gardens
The Beaumont Hotel’s Gatsby Room puts a transatlantic twist on the classically British afternoon tea served by places like Fortnum and Mason. An eclectic mix of antique books and oil paintings and deep burgundy walls make the Art Deco-style space feel intimate and calm, even when the tables are packed — as they often are. Start off with a glass of champagne or a zero-proof cocktail to whet the palate for a choice of traditional or rare teas. Understated three-tiered serving stands burst with finger sandwiches and pastries. The peach, verbena and raspberry mousse and cured lox finger sandwiches will make it hard to leave any room for dinner. The Beaumont offers a vegan menu as well as children’s options. They ask only that you arrive dressed “smartly.”
Tea and Tattle
41 Great Russell St
This is not the expensive, hotel restaurant, tourist-driven afternoon tea experience of the other recommendations listed. A bit more within budget and off-the-beaten-track, Tea and Tattle is an old-fashioned bookstore with a cafe in the basement. The walls boast an eclectic mix of hand-painted Chinese wallpaper and artworks probably found in a flea market. Fresh, warm scones with quality clotted cream, thick slices of cake and classic finger sandwiches will fill the stand, which looks to be straight out of your grandmother’s kitchen. Sip on milky tea and tattle away in this unpretentious version of the ritual.
Afternoon Tea at the Dean Street Townhouse
69-71 Dean St
With a laid-back vibe and old-world energy, the Dean Street Townhouse’s afternoon tea service will allow you the freedom to people-watch the diverse crowd for as long as you’d like. The menu is retro, with classically British Battenberg cake, Victoria sponges and egg-and-mayonnaise sandwiches. Served in the parlor, the environment is elevated without being over-the-top, making it a lovely place to relax on a rainy afternoon.
Prêt-à-Portea at The Berkeley
Wilton Pl
There is no afternoon tea more stylish than this fashion-forward twist on the classic tradition. The three-tiered stand is replaced by an elegant tree sculpture laden with tiny cakes. The chicken-mayonnaise sandwich is inside a croissant instead of between slices of bread. Cakes are in the shape of mini handbags and shoes. But do not fear that style might overtake substance: the seasonal creations burst with flavor, from cloud-like cherry clafoutis to strawberry-filled choux Frasier. The only downside is that scones are not provided.
Maison Bertaux
28 Greek St
Though the three-tiered afternoon London tea experience is not to be missed, the original tradition was to simply have tea and snacks around 4 p.m. For an understated snack and drink, there is no place better than Maison Bartaux. It claims the title of oldest French patisserie in the UK, and doesn’t pretend to compete with London’s artisanal bakeries. But with plenty of outdoor seating and an admirably stocked bakery case, it is the perfect place to create your own ritual. The cafe is no aesthetic haven, but the fruit tarts, hand-piped eclairs, and crisp croissants pair wonderfully with piping-hot tea, for an experience all your own.
Story by Mitra Nourbakhsh
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