To Cook Over a Fire

1. Prepare a wood fire, let it burn to hot coals, and set a grill grate over the coals.
2. Fill a large Dutch oven or soup pot halfway with water and stir in enough salt to make the water taste of the sea. Cover the pot, set on the grate, and bring to a boil.
3. Meanwhile, in a large cast-iron skillet set over the coals, cook the pancetta until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté until golden and crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the pancetta and garlic to a plate.
4. In the same skillet, add the clams and set the skillet over the coals for 1 minute, while stirring to coat the clams in the residual fat. Set the skillet off to the side of the coals, yet still close to the fire. The clams will slowly start to open and take on a smoky flavor. Discard any clams that do not open up in the cooking process.
5. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to the package directions.
6. In a large bowl, stir together the Parmesan, eggs, and 1 teaspoon pepper until thoroughly combined. Using a pair of tongs, transfer the hot pasta directly to the egg mixture and stir well and quickly so as not to scramble the eggs. Add a bit of the pasta water, as needed, to create a creamy sauce.
7. Add the pancetta and garlic to the pasta along with the clams, then stir in the lemon zest and juice.
8. Transfer the pasta to a serving platter. Top with the parsley and more grated Parmesan, lemon zest, and pepper.

To Cook in a Home Oven

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, cook the pancetta over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté until golden and crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the pancetta and garlic to a plate.
3. In the same skillet, add the clams and cook for 1 minute while stirring to coat the clams in the residual fat. Add ½ cup water, cover the skillet, and continue to cook until the clams have all opened, about 5 minutes. Discard any clams that do not open up in the cooking process. Uncover and allow the water to evaporate.
4. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook according to the package directions.
5. In a large bowl, stir together the Parmesan, eggs, and pepper until thoroughly combined. Using a pair of tongs, transfer the hot pasta directly to the egg mixture and stir well and quickly so as not to scramble the eggs. Add a bit of the pasta water, as needed, tocreate a creamy sauce.
6. Add the pancetta, garlic, and clams to the pasta. Stir in the lemon zest and juice.
7. Transfer the pasta to a serving platter. Top with the parsley and more grated Parmesan, lemon zest, and pepper.