“All farmers are rock stars now,” John Jamison says. “It’s about time.” The celebrity lamb farmer stands in the window of Eleven’s banquet room, wearing sheep-print pants, and addresses the patrons of Pennsylvania Association of Sustainable Agriculture (PASA)’s Benefit Dinner.

John and his high school sweetheart, Sukey, have produced the country’s most notorious lamb for more than 30 years, in the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains. They’ve provided tonight’s much-anticipated main course, and they are in good company: Almost the entire menu is made up of local ingredients from the farms of their fellow farming rock stars.

The amuse bouche is fresh, wet watermelon cubes, blanketed with a thin sheet of Surryano ham. There’s a crust of baguette with hiramasa (Yellowtail) tartare, and, most notable, fried Hen of the Woods mushrooms. We sip Prosecco and then TABLE publisher Christina French and I parlay our media status into entrance in the kitchen for more mushrooms.

Down there, the mood is light. Chefs Bill Fuller and Derek Stevens make jokes, reveal one another’s nick names (Did Bill call Derek “Betty”?), and prep the next courses. Their sous chefs buzz around them, serious but smiling.

Grilled white peaches come out next, and their fleshy texture compliments the sticky softness of Bayley Hazen blue cheese crumbles. We are ready for course three: Three Sisters Farm Mesclun greens over heirloom tomatoes and sweet corn panna cotta. (The peppery greens paired with the juicy tomato reminds me of dunking my after-dinner salad in my mom’s marinara.) It’s perfect.

“Sustainable agriculture has reached a new level,” says Fuller. “We’re seeing amazing things in foraging — and super-tiny regional finds.” When we sneak back into the kitchen, he picks through a bowl of more Mesclun greens, naming off the varieties and letting us steal crunches of the alien lettuces, brand new to restaurant plates.

Next, there’s a Dorade, topped with a cold bean relish and licks of jalapeno. The crumbles of cornbread, battering themselves to the fish, make the dish more “fun.” Like fish sticks.

I like the pairing of Rosenblum Zinfandel — in the way that I like the rule-breaker of red wine and fish. The Dorade is just oily and meaty enough to stand up to the spicy Zin.

Finally, there is lamb. Heady, deep, rich, cut-with-your-fork lamb. Fuller and Stevens serve it with baby potatoes and beets, and apples sliced like French fries. I love it.

We finish the night with blueberry and goat cheesecake. The poached peach on top looks like a sunny-side up egg but is as syrupy sweet as the Royal Tokaji 5 Puttonyos, an after-dinner wine whose tiny rim makes the tips of our noses sticky in the most satisfying way.